It can be cold and dreary in Nebraska in winter and most people want some green around to fight off the winter blues.  November brings on a whole new set of growing conditions for our tropical houseplants indoors, both for ones that have been brought indoors after a summer outside as well as those that are year-round fixtures inside.  For winter success, consider these 5 factors.

Ninety percent of these plants are from Florida and are native to the tropics; thus, we’re trying to re-create Florida growing conditions, or at least to work in that direction.  Here are the 5 that are most influential that can help plants thrive, not only survive, in order of importance.

Light – Since the preferred light levels for most houseplants are drastically reduced indoors, it’s important to provide them with adequate levels.  If you’re not blessed with a sunny bay window or indoor greenhouse, grow lights can suffice.  Many more models of grow lights are available these days than in the 80’s and 90’s, usually supplying a wide spectrum of blue, red and far-red wavelengths.  The good news is that even inexpensive “shop lights” will do a good job if warm white and cool white tubes are used.

Humidity – Along with reduced light levels, much lower humidity levels surround houseplants in winter.  Fortunately pebble trays and portable humidifiers can make a positive improvement.  The myth of “hand misting” is just that, a myth.  Sure, spraying a fine mist of water on the leaves will help, but only for about 10-15 minutes, then the humidity level goes back to the percentage of the rest of the house.  Of course, as humans, we tend to love to care for things – pets, plants and other people, so if it makes you feel better, go right ahead.

Temperature – Placing a thermometer near the pots will be beneficial, especially in window settings.  Plant leaves next to the glass can be near freezing, while just a couple of feet away are in the 50–70-degree F range.  Most grow best at temperatures in the low 70’s but check the plant care tag for individual plant preferences.

Water – The most critical consideration with watering is to supply enough so that about 10% drains out the bottom of the pot and to let the soil go slightly dry between waterings.  Since houseplants grow more slowly in winter than at other times of the year, overwatering aka keeping the soil excessively moist is a common problem.

Nutrients – Slow winter growth equates to a lesser need for added nutrients.  One good fertilization in October or November and another in early spring is usually sufficient.  Fertilizing more often usually leads to leaf burn and root loss.

Quick Diagnostic Guide for “Sick” Houseplants

Following are signs of a houseplant in decline.  Watch for these symptoms and you may be able to correct the situation before the plant dies.

Sudden wilting may occur if plants get too little water, too much fertilizer or too much water.  If you’re not sure when to water, test the soil with your index finger to make sure it’s beginning to dry out.  Many houseplant deaths are caused by too much water.

Sudden loss of leaves is frequently caused by rapid temperature changes, dry air, cold drafts, exposure to gas or furnace fumes or a change from a sunny to dark location.

Yellowing or death of lower leaves may be a symptom of nitrogen deficiency or a pot bound plant.

Yellowing of all leaves may be due to excessive soil moisture or root rot. 

Unnaturally small leaves and a “stretchy appearance” are generally due to insufficient light.  Consider using shop lights to supplement the window light.